Shanghai Restaurant Review: Vinism

By Betty Richardson, September 30, 2017

The Place

For a city with a sizeable number of French expats, Shanghai isn’t short of places to drink wine. But narrow down to parameters like ‘affordable wine’ and the selection declines sharply; ask for ‘natural affordable wines,’ and it shrinks even more. And if you were to ask for an affordable natural wine bar with a quaint atmosphere and a menu of French-Chinese tapas, that whittles your result down to one place: newly opened Vinism on Tai’an Lu.

The Food

Offering more than the requisite cheese and charcuterie to pair with wine, Vinism serves a chalkboard menu of Asian fusion cuisine in the form of small, tapas-like sharing plates.

The kitchen’s talent is taking Chinese classics and gently repurposing them to fit a wine-friendly tapas format. For example, pressed pig ear terrine with peanuts and chive oil (RMB60), would fit on dining tables in both China and Provence.

Vinism Shanghai

Braised pork belly was a clear riff on the much-loved Shanghainese dish hongshao rou (红烧肉, RMB60), but paired with peas and puffed wild rice it became an almost entirely new entity.

Vinism Restaurant Shanghai

Asparagus with pistachio cream is another thought-provoking number; crumbs of dried sea shrimps change the flavor profile to something more Asian without disturbing the main ingredients. Paired with a bottle of Sicilian white wine, it was truly memorable.

Vinism Restaurant Shanghai

Pan-fried dumplings – a hybrid between a Polish pierogie and a Japanese gyoza – with shrimp and a ‘sauce Sichuan’ (RMB60) were also delicate and delicious, so much so that a second plate was requested.

Vinism Restaurant Shanghai

Of course, cheese and charcuterie are available; a mixed board of both will set you back RMB300. The three cheeses offered weren’t especially exceptional, but we liked that the charcuterie selection included cured meats from China, in particular an aromatic and spicy ham from Sichuan.

The kitchen doesn’t hit the target with every dish, however. Fried spring rolls with sea sedge (RMB45) were memorable only for their oiliness, while a razor clam dish with lotus root had a strangely sour taste that missed the mark completely (RMB70).

Vinism

Food verdict: 2/3

The Vibe

Despite the simple décor, which includes whimsical wall murals painted by a talented server no less, Vinism manages to exude no small amount of understated French charm.

A temperature-controlled wine cave at the back allows you to peruse the sizeable wine collection, which has an emphasis on organic, natural and biodynamic wineries, and a small candle-lit terrace out front caters to wine-sipping smokers.

Vinism shanghai wine bar The selection is also geared more towards the affordable, and while there are certainly some special finds to be had, an evening or afternoon spent here can be easily accomplished for under RMB300 per person. As such, Vinism is certainly high up on our list for intimate, date-worthy restaurants that will impress.